g741.org

more work done... FINALLY got the wastegates. For thsoe of you who are not turbo-savvy, the wastegates are on the exhaust and allow high pressure header gasses to bypass, or "waste" around the turbine, which then controls shaft speed of the turbo, and the boost pressure. they are controlled by a vaccuum/boost signal from the intake manifold. When it reaches the preset pressure of boost, the gate opens:







Made in the USA, over near Flint, MI:



and, how I plan to tie the low pressure side of the wastegate into the 3" exhaust. I've still got to make SS discharge flanges, and order 3" SS pipe, but this gives you a good idea. The thing I'm holding against the turbine housing a is a 3" V band that I'll put in to make it easier to service the exhaust/headers if needed:









In the truck:

Very impressive, indeed, Josh! That engine bay is going to be awfully crowded with all the goodies you're cramming into it, though. Looks to me like you're going to have to disassemble half of it just to change spark plugs by the time you finish!

one of the standard questions I ask myself before I weld anything down, or drill holes is "How much crap do I have to take apart if this thing fails"

lol!

Spark plugs are actually pretty easy. Pull the inner fender skirts, and they all poke right out the side below the headers.

more work done... Wrapped the headers with ceramic/high temp fiberglass wrap after I finished welding them up:





passenger's side:






Driver's:

sorry for the long time between updates... had a lot going on, but...

Engine assembled:







Then, this took about 40 hours over two weeks, 400 lb of sand, and about 450 KW of electricity through the Compressor... Got the electric bill a few days ago

Blast booth up:



Just starting:







Done:

looks good but why blocks on the front and not the back?

originally it was for differntial clearance on the V8 oil pan with the stock front axle, but, it sits nice and level front to back with them in there, so, I left them. I really should replace all4 spring packs, tehy have flattened significantly. Does anyone sell NOS ones or would I be better off getting my local spring shop to bend me some?

I bought my NOS Front M37 Springs front Vintage Power Wagons.

Josh you're a maniac ! You got a ton of work done since last I looked at your post. Excellent work sir. Looking good. Don't it feel great to see it come together? As I near completion of my rig I fear what I am going to do without my project? Oh thats right....buy another

She's in paint :

well, finally got around to another update. Sorry they are few and far between, the other half still is unemployed, so disposable cash for the truck has gotten scarce. I did get the "new" body down here, and, took a few pictures of the typical rust spots to show how solid it is. I also got the skid plate in, as well as the hydraulic tank, and the air tank. I also rebuilt the front hubs with new bearings, brakes, and seals, and, am going to convert the rear to disc, after adding up the cost of rebuilding the rear drums and figuring out that a disc conversion is only about $40 more. Lastly, I installed new grease zerks, and my new master cylinder:

rear hubs torn down:



A few of the new grease zerks:



Hydro and air tanks in, as well as the skid plate. Note the rear fill plug for the hydro tank, as well as the sight tube for oil level on the passenger's side. Both things I added to make maintenance in the future easier:





Master cylinder in... I made the 1/4" plate that bolts to the 3 original mounting holes, and then the new cylinder (from a 1980 Chevy C30) bolts to that. All holes are drilled and tapped, so that I didnt have to swiss cheese the running board mount any further than it already is:









Rebuilt front hubs... I need a set of Dana 60 front drive flanges for a dodge D60, if anyone happens to have a set layin around...



And, last but not least, a few shots of the "new" almost rust free AZ body. The ony places I've found that need new metal are the passengers side of the window frame, and the battery box. I cut the old battery box out of my cab, as, ironically, it was the only solid place left. The pictures below show a few of the typical bad rust spots, and how good a shape this body is. I tore the bed down, and, between the new bed floor, and old, I should be able to make one nice one:

Wow, great fabricating skills! That thing is going to be awesome when it's done.

thanks TLRS!!


I was showing a friend the rig, and he pointed out something to me I hadn't really thought about before... He goes "So, how big is the tank on this thing?" I said 25 gallons, and he pointed out that, on a good day, keeping my foot out of the twin turbo beast, it will have a dismal range of 250 miles... So, I designed and built the item below... Adds 20 gallons to the capacity, and, I'm going to cook up a shallow, U shaped connector tube with a flanged disconnect surface between the tanks to allow me to have a single fill neck, single tank level sender, and take my feed line off that U shaped low point to creat a slick, gravity feed system to the electric fuel pump, so there is no no more fighting with the thing, trying to get it to prime when I run her dry... I'll also put a drain in at that point, as well as a dirt trap to allow me ot drain off dirt from time to time.

I've got to finish welding in th U pipe, and test fitting it with the original tank, and then I'm going to seal the inside with epoxy gas tank sealer to both prevent rust, as well as seal any pinholes in my less than stellar sheet metal welding (I also have to go back and clean up those ugly welds... they're not meant to be prety, they're meant to seal and be strong first... the be pretty second... lol!).







It's sitting a bit high... he wood block was too tall. It will sit about 2" lower, parallel and even with the factory tank in the frame.













I also decided to convert the rear end to disc, as it was only $40 more than rebuilding the stock drums, and, I ordered my clutch. I went with a Spec Stage 3+, which is a 12" full contact area, sintered carbon metalic disc, with a diaphragm type plate.

Looks like a good use of space, but be aware that depending upon your use of your truck, it might get in the way of the suspension. Not sure when but at some point I've flexed the rear suspension to the point that the top of the differential touched the brake hose bracket off of the angle iron the rear tank mounts to, and the drive shaft hit a rivet on the bottom of the cross member at the front of your tank.

Will, good to know, thanks. I figure Ive still got about 5" of upward travel on the axle, so, for what I plan on doing with it, it should be alright... I'm not a hard core rock crawler like you... I'd be too afraid of laying it down on its side!