Braden Winch Problems

[slk]

Ok guys I was using the winch today and it was doing just fine dragging a log in. All of a sudden I heard a little noise and the cable was slipping. I looked to see if it had sheared a pin on the pto shaft but it is hard to tell just what is going on. I see a roll pin in one of the holes but it is not going through to the other side, and when I turn the shaft to the other side I see a similar looking pin. It is not going straight through the winch shaft. I can't even get the yoke off the winch. It may have sheered the woodruff key also. When I winch the cable without a load it does wind in, but when you put the cable on to something substantial it starts to winch but then slips. I have taken the winch off the truck. Any and all suggestions are welcome.

Steve

[isaac_alaska]

sounds like you sheared the pin, it's not supposed to be roll pin it's supposed to be a sheer pin, held in place with a cotter pin. sounds like you'll have to pry the yoke off and get the roll pin out.

[slk]

Prying has not worked so far. I think I am going to have to take the U-joint apart so I can try to use a puller or perhaps put an air chisel on the shaft and then try to pry at the same time. I put PB Blaster in all the holes last night, so hopefully it has gone around the shaft. I am sure there are burrs in there creating so much resistance.

Steve

[just me]

And loosening and sliding the retaining collar at the other end helps a great amount.

[slk]

Forgot to mention I have the winch out of the truck and is on my bench. I can't use a puller either as the yoke is too close to the winch housing. I can't slip anything behind it. I took out the U-joint so all I am looking at is the empty yoke with the collar that the sheer pin goes through. I can't get the thing to move out at all..

Steve

[just me]

Use a split plate bearing puller to get behind the yoke and pull it off.

[slk]

So this is what I have going on. I made a make shift puller, but it is still not budging. I think I need to get a case hard bolt tomorrow and try again as the mild steel bolt was bending some...

[isaac_alaska]

i don't remember ever seeing a set screw in mine...is there a chance there's a set screw down in one of those holes that's gotten itself cut into a groove? looks like you are on the right track with the puller...if i were you though i'd use a 1/2" fine thread bolt and nut, both grade 8, and then weld extensions on each side of the nut to come out and engage the ears. basically the same as you've got going but with a stronger bolt. looks like about a 5/16 coarse thread bolt you're using, you won't get a lot of pulling force with that.

also use heat, but try not to toast the seals unless you plan to replace them

[slk]

It is a 3/8 course thread. I hate to have to use heat. I really do not want to have to open it up. Yes the set screw hole is just there. There was not one in it, and I can see the shaft inside. As you can see in one of the pic's the remnants of that roll pin which should have never been in there to start with. I drilled and taped that 3/4" rod. It was from a plow handle and is tempered. It was a tough to tap, but it is done. I think if I used a 1/2 in bolt I would not have too much material left on the rod. If I could have found a 7/8" rod that would have been ok too.

I noticed that when I took the u-joint out there are no needle bearings in either cup. That is the first time I have seen that. They fit perfectly snug when on the post.

Steve

[isaac_alaska]

a 3/8 grade 8 bolt SHOULD be enough to pull that off of there....i'd still use at least a bit of heat, it makes a big difference. you can also tap on the back of the bolt after it's tightened up to help things move, but be careful and don't hit it real hard, as you could dent the roller bearings into their races on that shaft

[just me]

Those are formerly common plain bearing ujoints. Hopefully,you don't damage them. They are now very difficult to find and expensive. Your best bet to find them is hitting up OLD farm supply businesses.

[Marmalute]

So is there a generic name/number for that u joint if a guy wanted to have a spare on hand?

[slk]

Well guy I finally got the yoke off yesterday. I had to use a split bearing puller, and even that was not cake walk. Took about an hour of tightening here and there on the bolts and finally it began to come off easier. It had 3 rings cut into the shaft by chunks of that stupid roll pin someone had put in there. I have a box of the correct shear pins coming so I will have extras. I got the shaft all cleaned up and the inside of the yoke also.

Thanks for all of your help guys. Greatly appreciated.

Steve

[isaac_alaska]

glad that worked out for you!

[slk]

One other quick question is what type of gear oil goes in these winches. I use to know but I have forgotten.

Steve