Braden Winch Problems

Discuss fixes, upgrades and modifications to your M37

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isaac_alaska
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Re: Braden Winch Problems

Post by isaac_alaska »

by far the easiest way to get everything back together, is to assemble the drum onto the shaft, slide on a spacer, install both keys into the shaft, and then install the shift fork, spacer, and clutch into the other housing and keep the clutch housing flat on the bench. have a buddy help lift the drum/housing/shaft, hold it vertical, and slide it down into the clutch housing. If there's no groove cut in the bronze bushing in the clutch housing side, it's very hard to get the shaft to slide in, because the air has nowhere to go. i used a 3/16 diameter punch with the end ground flat so it had sharp edges, and used that by hand to cut a light groove in the top of the bushing in mine, in line with the shaft, so that air could escape the bushing cavity when i installed the shaft.
Isaac
Fairbanks, AK
Civilian WM300 on DC3 tires
'52 M37 on 11x16 Michelin
'52 M37 on Apple R-1 tractor tires
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MSeriesRebuild
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Re: Braden Winch Problems

Post by MSeriesRebuild »

Elwood wrote:
MSeriesRebuild wrote:
slk wrote:Yes you can see both dogs rolled up on the edge somewhat. I have cleaned them up, and got the surfaces flat again. The screw bore looked good to me. Not rounded. I took the set screw out and was able to install it back in after cleaning it out and it has tightened up pretty darned good. The is no play or slop in the fork now. I just have to figure out how to get it back together without letting that spacer fall out. That looks like it will be a challenge. All I can do is try it and see if it works. I use the winch so infrequently but it is nice to have it working when you need it.

I think the problem with the shifters is that people must have beat on them to get them to engage instead of rotating the drum and letting it pop in correctly.

Steve
The set screw gets loose, people continue to use them until things start to break. That screw once tight has to be stacked, if not, it will be loose again before you can turn around twice. It is best to use RED lock-tite liberally, tighten securely, then stack it to the fork very well.
Charles, I'm assuming that you mean to "stake" the set screw in place? Or is "stacking" it something else?
This is correct, sorry, I misspelled the word. The screw is notorious for working loose, which takes you right back to the problem of the shaft spinning in the fork. This is why it is so important that all the issues I mentioned earlier that are associated with this are in perfect shape. If they are not, the assembly will be tight as you feel it, but because all does not fit precisely as it should, once the winch is back in service, the assembly will become loose again causing the same problem very quickly. Long story short, what feels good to you as you put it together now will not hold up if there is any room for even the slightest movement when a load is applied. Just be careful that this is not fooling you into thinking all is great only to get to tear it all back down soon.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
slk
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Re: Braden Winch Problems

Post by slk »

I got the cable back on the winch today. I let it pull the truck the entire 150'. I guess my fix thus far is holding. Only time will tell. A big thanks to everyone who chimed in on the site. Greatly Appreciated.

Steve
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