power steering M37

[squeeky0_50]

I just added snake river power steering to my m37, I didnt install it. I just got my truck back and the steering wheel turns hard, in fact I really dont have power steering. Does anybody have any idea what to check or look for? I am lost. Never saw this setup before. I called snake river and he said it is either in the steering box or the power steering pump. Nobody in my area has this kind of setup. Anybody have and ideas?

[W_A_Watson_II]

Who did the install?

Was the Box and Pump New (Fresh rebuilds) or direct from a scrap/junk yard?

Any Pictures of the box mounted and the steering shaft connection?

[squeeky0_50]

I know the power steering pump is from snake river, not sure about the box, it has a number 41 stamped on the front of it {towards the front of the truck} I think it is snake river but not sure. Just got my truck back after 2-1/2 years from a person trying to do some kind of restoration, that is another story. All I know is that its full of fluid and I dont see any leaks, just when you try to turn the wheel side to side, it turns easy for about a 1/4 turn each way then is a real bear to turn any farther. Tom at snake river said you should be able to turn it sitting on cement driveway with one finger. also used were his tilt wheel kit and u joint kit. I think it all comes from flaming river.

[k8icu]

Without seeing it it's hard to diagnose but maybe the last one to work on the truck installed the hoses backwards and it's causing it to not work properly?

[W_A_Watson_II]

Try these steps to help isolate the issue:

Jack the front of the truck off the ground (both wheels). With the Engine Off, how hard is the steering? If easy, then I'd look at the pump/plumbing. If no change next step:

Disconnect the drag ling from the steering box and repeat the above test. IF the steering wheel is hard, then I'd suspect a bad steering box. If the steering is easy next step:

Grab one of the wheels while the link is disconnected and try turning the wheel (steer). It should be hard. If not go back and re-check the box. If it is, next step:

Disconnect the tie rod and try steering each wheel separate. One wheel is likely the culprit, and once you find it I'd suspect the tract-ta-joint axle might not have been properly installed, or too much king pin resistance.

[bill monahan]

I installed the Snake River kit a few months ago. Works GREAT. Steering box was a rebuilt later model Dodge unit and the pump a rebuilt Ford unit. Did have to drive it awhile and keep topping off pump. Other then that, nice clean install.

[ZGjethro]

I have been in touch with Snake River 4x4 about buying their whole power steering kit. My main hesitation, other than the $900 price, is the difficulty in altering the steering column and mounting the Steering box. I have seen welded and bolt in versions, and I would probably bolt it in. Either way, I can do minor alterations, but not to the degree that many here can. For those who have done this, How hard is it? It would be nice for me, but it would enable my wife to drive the truck

[W_A_Watson_II]

It wasn't that difficult. Mounting the box mount is straight forward, with the exception of needing to add a flange for the upper mount hole to bolt thru. Getting the angle right is important, I got mine a little too for counter clock wise, but I did not have their template as I only bought the parts I needed from them. The steering column modification isn't a big issue at all.

[bill monahan]

Get the whole kit. It includes the "L" bracket tab that must be welded to top of frame. If you can't weld I'm sure you can arrange for a friend to do it. The angle is a no brainer. All you have to do is enlarge an already existing frame hole. Temporarily bolt mount to frame with bolt, included. Then temporality bolt "L" bracket to mount resting tab on top of frame. Tack weld tab then remove mount and finish welding tab. Then bolt mount to frame and install steering box on mount.
The pump comes with a nice bracket that bolts to head. Then install hoses. Kit does not come with a belt. I found a 59" B belt worked fine for me, from NAPA.
The steering column mod isn't that hard but you do have to remove steering wheel witch requires a special puller. I cut the inner shaft and outer shaft with a cut off tool.
If you need more detailed instructions get in touch.

[MSeriesRebuild]

First I'll address the initial question about the possibility of why squeeky's system is problematic. Having talked to him at length via phone and hearing his concerns about this and other things his service provider did to his truck; all I can say is I'm not at all surprised that the system this service provider installed does not function properly.

Pertaining to a bolt on system that someone else mentioned; we offer a system that is bolt on ready. I'll explain briefly why we did ours different. When we first started installing these on M37's, we were building many trucks for brush fire fighting, and moderately severe off road applications. These were certainly subjected to more abusive situations than collector trucks, Saturday drivers, etc. We used some of the Dodge cast box brackets at the onset, but I simply was not happy with the flexing I saw of the bracket in heavily loaded hard steering situations. That prompted me to look at something different. This lead to us fabricating our own box bracket in house that is much heavier than the cast bracket; and it bolts to the frame rail using the mounting holes that the original Gemmer steering box utilized. No welding on of tabs is required. Our bracket is fabricated from 5/8" thick, 8" wide cold roll plate. It fastens to the frame with 5/8" diameter grade 8 hardware. I think it is safe to say, you would rip the frame rail off the truck before this bracket would break. We have had "0" problems with this system to date after 15 or so years of using it on numerous trucks in various operating conditions. Using a replacement tilt column assy would vary as far as installation requirements and degree of difficulty in order to get it installed the best it can be. That is of course based on the replacement assy one may choose. Most of our clients choose to keep the original column assy for interior cab appearance sake, which requires cutting and fitting in order to obtain proper length and height per owner/driver specs. We supply all the necessary small parts, column jacket bracket, etc., along with complete instructions necessary to obtain the original in cab set up. Really the only thing the installer must do on his or her own is to set the desired length and height, (if it is to change from original specs.) The only issues that have come up is due to installer's deciding they needed to re-write the instructions provided by us for proper installation. Long story short, if you follow instructions to the letter, you should have a great steering system that performs well in any normal M37 application.

[ZGjethro]

Thanks Charles. Could you post some more info about that power steering kit? I am interested in a well thought out kit for my truck. You could also PM me.

[MSeriesRebuild]

Thanks Charles. Could you post some more info about that power steering kit? I am interested in a well thought out kit for my truck. You could also PM me.

What would you like to know that I have not said already?

[ZGjethro]

Are the components new or rebuilt, or salvaged? Ballpark price? Front brakes should be my priority, but I'd love power steering

[MSeriesRebuild]

Are the components new or rebuilt, or salvaged? Ballpark price? Front brakes should be my priority, but I'd love power steering

The gear box and pump are new rebuilds, all other components in the kit are new. Brackets for the box and pump are built right here in house by us. U-joints are new, Flaming River. Column brackets are custom built by us, column shaft bushings are custom made by us. Hoses are brand new. Our set up also has a spin-on return line oil filter.

Cost for the kit that includes everything is $2,000. As with every power steering installation, we strongly recommend going through everything related to steering to include the knuckles, drag link joints, tie rods, idler arm, etc. Be sure to eliminate all end play from the idler arm on its pin. Just replacing the pin and bushing alone will not fix idler arm issues, build up and machining will be required to correct this, almost all trucks have problems in this area. If all this is not addressed before adding power steering, any loose motion or problem issues within the steering system will only be magnified when power steering is added. All areas of need, no matter how slight they may be must be addressed and brought up to strict standard in order for the new system to be the best it can be. The ease of hydraulic power steering is great, however it will not fix worn components in the steering system. Unless everything is brought up to spec, your truck still will not have good handling characteristics.

[ZGjethro]

Thanks again for your input. I am sure your kit is the finest available, but it is a bit out of my price range. I think I will need to re-think power steering for now