Now the rebuild starts

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Carter
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Re: Now the rebuild starts.....

Post by Carter »

The shop did a good job for you, block looks factory new.
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Experience with Grant piston rings

Post by NAM VET »

Thought I would post my experience today when I filed my Grant rings. First, I had to resove the difference between what the TM says of ring gaps, and what the Grant suggestion is. TM is .007, the Grant is .003-.004 times the diameter in inches, ie, for my cylinders, .010 - .014. So I called the Tech line at Grant, and asked what they suggested, and he thought somewhere in between their recommendations would be best. I also studied the TM drawing for what the top rings look like. My old pistons have two compression rings, and then two similar perforated oil control rings. The new set from VPW for my new aftermarket pistons has only one lower perforated oil ring, and the next one up is the more modern rippled expander with the two very narrow rings that go in that piston groove.

So I bought a ring file, one with a 150 grit wheel, and found that only the lowest perforated oil ring needed any significant filing, it was perhaps .003 or so, so I filled all six to give me .011. I then started checking the narrow twin rings, and found they had excessive gaps, then realized that unlike the top and bottom rings, the narrow rings don't have enough expansion tension to snug up against the cylinder walls. The Tech guy said that the gaps for the narrow rings are not significant, and can vary substantially, and they are not to be filed.

I found the top two rings were right at my desired .011, with two needed only .001 removed to meet that.

The Grant rings come in separate sleeves, one for each ring set, with specific instructions on each sleeve as to the sequence of piston insertion. I checked each compression set and found two rings that were not marked "top" like the others, and one second ring was in with the top set, and a top ring was misplaced in the second sleeve. The top two rings have different bevels, so I put the misplaced rings back in their respective sleeve.

I watched the 1948 Utube video "the case of the thirsty rings", and it explained why the top rings have the bevels they do. So I was reassured that my top rings are correctly marked "top", two being unmarked, but all is well now.

I did each ring set separately in their respective bores, using the piston for that bore to push the rings down to measure the ring gap. Then to keep each bore's rings separate, I used most of a box of Zip lock bags so each bore/piston set stays with its matched piston.

I removed any tiny burr from the ring end I filed with a small flat file. I put a rug down under my motor, in case i dropped a ring, to avoid cracking a ring. I did not drop any though. And recorded each bore's ring final package data.

Tomorrow I will install the rings on their pistons and as soon as my bore specific adjustable compressor arrives, will put them in their bores.

Just a few thoughts on how I have done this so far.

all the best,

NV
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Engine in!

Post by NAM VET »

Can't believe how nice it is to see my black painted engine sitting on the frame rails. I pulled it out over 6 months ago, and had the machine shop completely inspect and then make it just right. Spent the last month assembling it, paying meticulous attention to detail, then buttoning it up. My son drove up from Columbia SC yesterday to help me install the transmission/PTO. Which was not easy. It weighs about 180 pounds, so with the engine on a wooden stand, we used my hoist to line it up;, I had the machine shop cut the heads off of 5 inch bolts, to help align it without bending anything, although ended up only being able to use one, next time (Never again) will cut one to about 3 inches, as one side of the trans has a bump, hindering using both bolts. But that transmission just wouldn't got the last inch or so, no matter how much we wiggled and pulled and shoved, and I was about to give up, when with one last shove, it mated up to the bellhousing.

Then we rolled all 800 pounds out to the driveway, and with Chris raising the transmission with a chain, and a jack under the tail of the gearbox, we manhandled that beast this way and that, and finally set it down onto new isolaters in the rear. At precisely the moment when Chris dropped pins into the holes, a horrendous windstorm blew up, so we just pulled the hoist and jack into the garage, and showered and then toasted our accomplishment with craft beers.

there is just no way I could have reinstalled the engine by myself. So today spend a few hours, hooking up the shift/brake levers, hooking up some of the linkages, and other odds and ends. Just too hot to spend to much time out under the sun here in Upstate SC. I am adding an Autometer mechanical oil pressure gage to the stock electric one. Charles T provided me with a rebuilt carb and gas pedal linkage, with beveled cotter pin links. So much easier to use them in tight places.

I have used new Grade 8 and ARP fasteners everywhere there isn't a special Dodge fastener. Mostly for new threads and more rust resistance. Besides, they look good. The guy at Fastenal knows me by name now.

I just got back from two+ weeks out in NE, in my wife's small town there is this incredible hardware store, all kinds of fasteners and odds and ends, much of it for heavy farming and construction repairs, even had a large Baldwin filter section, so picked up two P53's for ten bucks each. I hurt my back muscles almost a month ago, mandhandling my 100 amp alternator, and only now is my back almost back to norma. I couldn't have worked on my truck anyway for some weeks.

I just hope when I crank it, it fires up without serious issues. Here's hoping....

NV
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Re: Engine in!

Post by Carter »

Good to learn the engine is now installed in the frame. In a short time you have made much progress and I have following since you first started posting here and really enjoyed the comments since starting the restoration, keep up the good work.
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Re: Engine in!

Post by NAM VET »

the one thing, the one thing, that has just kept me worrying for months is hooking up the short 6 inch clevis that goes from the clutch pedal to the clutch arm. It was really hard to remove the slightly rusty pins that held it on at both ends last winter, so naturally I was hoping the reinstall would go better. I just finished about 5 hours finally getting both ends hooked up with the pin holes on the proper end, with the spring tab on correctly. I had wire brushed the pins and smoothed out the clevis holes, but since I have the PTO on the transmission for my winch, there is scant room to push the pin from inside to out. In fact, there isn't room, and if you give up and push the pin from out to in, there would be sufficient pressure on the pin end to wear out the cotter, and the whole shebang would come off. Ended up having to raise my engine up slightly with a high lift jack under the trans, and lever the motor over an inch or so, to have room to push the pin from in to out. Of course, with dirt falling in my eyes, and trying to line up the clevis holes with the pedal end, and still not room for my long fingers, ended up using some surgical long hemostates and other tools to get the pedal end done. That took several hours. Then up top, had to do the same with the clutch release arm. Again, had to insert the pins in correctly, so any pressure would not wear out the cotter. Another 3 hours, in the sun of course. I decided to insert to hold the pins in with snap-fittings, for one of the correct term, the spring-loaded wires. They are much larger than the smaller diameter cotters that fit in the pin holes. Had to be sure the spring "cotters" would not hit anything even if they rotate 360 degrees.

It wouldn't have been so hard if I did not have a PTO, so if you do, my suggestion is to pin the clevis on the pedal end and tie it up before you drop the motor in, at least one end is in then. My clevis has a small angle to be sure it lines up at both ends to reduce binding, so matched that also. I needed an assortment of steel center-punches to line up the top end so I could insert the pin from inside to out, of course, there is a cab flange precisely in the way of those, too. Used an assortment of wire hooks to hold one end while I worked on the other end of the clevis. I don't know how one would get to the upper clevis end with the fenders on. And just because you can insert your fingers and hand into some tight spot, doesn't mean they will extricate just as easily. I had my phone where I would have to dial the fire department for help with my nose. Maybe I should get one of those Alexa voice command do-hickly's, so I can tell Alexa to call fire department to get me unstuck.

So now inside, cooling down, having beef jerky and cheese and chips for lunch, and catching up on my water deficit. My wife just left for a week at the beach, and told me about all the nutritious food she left in the 'fridge for me. Since she is gone now, I am having a "guy" lunch. I earned it this morning. Now, to nap a bit, then back out to put the motor back precisely, and start hooking up the big wires, then the radiator and such. Man, I am bushed....

nv
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Re: Engine in!

Post by NAM VET »

My lunch of beef jerky and chips must have revived me. After a short rest, went out and moved the motor back into position, and I was glad I had some of dad's old Craftsman wrenches, as getting to the castle nut on the driver side is another tight fit. I have found a set of crook-neck wrenches essential for some hard to reach fasteners. Then attached my vent lines, the ones from the MC and fuel tank. So I didn't have to make my replacement vent lines a perfect length to hook up to the short flexible ones coming off behind the generator (got them from Charles T), I spliced in a short run of brake line then used about six inches of hose to the rear vent line tubing, used fuel injection clamps for a tight connection. I'll take some pictures. Then, since my ARP head studs are larger than the small bolt on the OEM head bolt for the big ground cable, and I did not want to make the cable hole any larger, I used an ARP stainless stud into one of the holes on the side of the cylinder head, where I added another bolt-on clamp to hold the oil line more securely, then nutted the ground cable to that. Looks nifty.

'Temporarily mounted my radiator. Again, all fasteners are grade 8, nice shiny and good threads, I had to run a tap up one fine thread hole to spiff up the threads on the big heavy radiator support. I have to set my clutch pedal free play, and check my carb linkage too.

I bought a fuel pressure regulator to bring my 24 volt Facet down to about 5-5 pounds. Have a "T" NPT coming from Jegs so I can run both oil pressure gages.

I was thinking today how nice it would be if a couple of guys made a video of how to do a home garage removal, rebuild, and reinstallation of a motor. Sort of like a Haynes only on a DVD not a book. I can't tell you how many times I have had to review the pictures I took to see how some part goes, which way the fastener goes. "Hold this bracket thus, then use this trick wrench to hold the nut, while you hold the bolt with a needle nose pliers, lining up the two holes with a bent short rod, pushing the rod thru with your big toe....

Wife is at the beach, I don't know if I want to drive somewhere for dinner, or just see what is in the pantry. For the next four days, I'll subsist on Guy food and craft beer...

All the best guys,

NV
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Re: Engine in!

Post by NAM VET »

well, all I have left to do is hook up a few wires and connect the fuel lines, and I am confident my engine will spin. I am not so confident however that it will start. It seems that every little task just seems to be harder than it has to be. It took me better part of an hour to hook up the big cables to and from the front mounted rectifier, my truck being a 100 amp machine. The two big right angle connectors can't fit unless one is turned upwards or downwards, that proved to be very difficult. But finally, i got it done. Put on the radiator and hoses, and the grill and side panels, and adjusted the pull throttle and the clutch free play. I have a few minor tasks to attend to, and then one final careful look over, and then when I feel ready (and lucky), i'll turn it. The only thing I lack is a "T" hookup for my extra mechanical oil pressure gate. It at least looks like an army truck now, and not some sort of big green skeleton in my driveway.

Now for a craft beer and a sub sandwich...

NV
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Re: Engine in!

Post by Elwood »

Nice progress.

NV, are you going to pre-pressure the engine lube system before starting it?
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Re: Engine in!

Post by NAM VET »

my plan all along was to hook up some sort of pre-lube system via the main gallery 1/8 NPT plug just aft of the oil pressure take-off site. I bought an assortment of 1/8 NPT straight and right angle fittings, but found if I put one in I could not insert the starter, and once the starter was in, there is about 1/8 inch clearance between the end of the starter and the port in the gallery, so there is not enough room to install and turn an inlet port. If the starter was about an inch shorter, it would work.

So my only option is to use the inlet port/tubing that goes to the OEM fuel pressure gage. I have mounted an Autometer mechanical oil pressure gage on the steering column, and in a day or so will have a "T" NPT adaptor coming from Jegs's, so I can add a line to the Autometer gage. I can also temporarily put in a NPT with a nipple and use my fluid transfer hand pump to force oil into the motor. But I discussed this plan with Charles T and he told me not to worry, as long as I used a good assembly lube everywhere (I used a more viscous one on the cam lobes, and a lighter Red Line assembly lube on the crankshaft, I use the latter a lot on my guns) as the pre-start oil will follow the path of least resistance, and just flow down into the pan, unless there is enough oil pressure to see a rise on the pressure gage.

I have to decide if I want to keep the OEM oil pressure gage in addition to the Autometer, or just plug an Accusump into its "T". I really liked the A'sump I had on my Cobra's motor, two quart, I would bump the pressure up to about 30 pounds before it bled off. I had an electric switch on the A'sump, with the canister in the engine compartment, but I would have to add a 24V to 12V circuit to use an electric one in my truck. So I considered using the fording cable to move a manual lever to open and close the valve, but the fording wire would have to work thru a 90 arc, and likely not be strong enough anyway. So back to putting the A'sump under the seats, with a manual valve where I can reach it.

I had AN 8 hoses for the A'sump in my Cobra, and pushing oil thru an 1/8 NPT would not work for racing G loads, but would be adequate for starting my truck.

found my throttle return spring catches on the carb's PVC connections, so my first chore in a few minutes is to move the hook-up hole a few inches higher, my plan is to drill a hole in a washer under a nut on a bolt holding the upper floor panel in, it is a straight line then for the spring and the little return wire.

I only have to hook up my fuel lines to start my truck. But I am in no hurry, I want to think it all over first. I don't know why I have this apprehension, after all, it seemed to run fine with little compression on two cylinders and not spec pressure on the other four, and the tab on the rotor was broken off. I had a non-stock rod too. Maybe it is the hundreds of hours I have spent since last fall, and the nearly 6 thousand dollars (maybe more) I have spent thus far. Charles T rebuilt my carb, starter, alternator and gave me a new pressure plate and disc, The only OEM parts in the motor are five rods and the crankshaft. I have been as careful and meticulous and precise as I can possibly be.

Now, out to to the driveway, before it gets just too hot in the sun.

All the best,

NAM VET, upstate SC
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Re: Engine in!

Post by just me »

a.jpg
a.jpg (44.27 KiB) Viewed 2634 times
Why not use this port to oil it?
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Re: Engine in!

Post by rickf »

Pull the spark plugs and crank it for a while. The assembly lubing you did when you put it together was a lot more than it normally would have so it is plenty good to go for some cranking time to fill the oil galleys.
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Re: Engine in!

Post by NAM VET »

JUST ME:, my starter must be tad longer than yours, because there is no room to get a wrench on a fitting there. Just engine variables, I suppose. I doubt a straight fitting would fit, for sure the 90 degree ones I bought won't turn. UPS just brought me the three port NPT for adding the Autometer oil pressure gage. Plus more Competition Cams break in oil. Now to run back to the local industrial hose and plumbing supply, need a different NPT/nipple for my fuel pressure gage, I have a liquid filled pressure gate screwed into it now. I am running temporary fuel lines just to get it gassed and running, from my rear mounted 24 V Facet pump, all new hard fuel lines, will later mount the regulator on the in inner fender well. Fabbed up a replacement fuel line shut off, got it I think from Grainger, needed only one adaptor nipple.

The drilled washer didn't have room, so cut a short piece of aluminum bar and it extends out an inch for hooking the short wire on the throttle return spring. Adding a small eye hook instead of just drilling a hole, reducing angular pressure on that thin wire loop.

Yes, my plan is to remove the spark plugs to crank it to get some oil where it needs to be. I cleaned and gapped my old military plugs, but since the washers were shot, got some Moroso plug indexing 14 mm plug washers. Set comes with about three slightly different thicknesses. I am on a first name basis with the Fastenal counter clerk, bought another bag of fine thread bolts there last pm, needed a few longer ones. The guys at the industrial plumbing shop are anxious to see my truck, I ordered them a Pizza for lunch not long ago. The chap at a nearby ACE a few minutes ago greeted me with a question of how much longer when I needed a single fine thread 1.5 inch grade 8 7/16 bolt.

Sometimes I think the whole town is just waiting to see my M37 on the road.

All I have left is to hook up my temporary fuel lines, prime my Facet, flick the aircraft safety fuel pump switch off at first, and see what happens. I think I will rest and reflect for a day or so before I do that. I am taking pictures as I go, but holding off adding them here, hoping Photobucket isn't on to my use for posting on this and other forums.

NV
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Re: Engine in!

Post by Cal_Gary »

My goodness you are working hard, Nam Vet! Tiring just to envision all of your work. The clutch linkage remains fresh in my mind as well from my tranny rebuild, although my engine was already in place. It's still a tight fit.

I've done nothing with my truck in the last month since we've hit triple digits with regularity so I'm itching to get out (early in the morning) and take it for a spin.
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Re: Engine in!

Post by NAM VET »

Thanks for the complement. Having cold brew coffee and a warmed up Danish, before going out to the garage and driveway. Another 6 or 7 hours on the truck yesterday. Made up a temporary hook-up hose for gas from the new hard line from under the radiator, using fuel injection hose, then a short run to the new fuel cut-off, then to the pressure regulator, then to the carb. For the first time in at least six months, climbed into the cab, turned on the battery disconnect, turned on the ignition switch, saw the gages register, then lifted up the aircraft safety switch, and lifted up the fuel pump toggle.

And nothing, no clicks, no wirring, because my 24 V small box Facet was lifeless. Climbed back down, and used my continuity tester and found power to the pump, but an inneffectual ground, so drilled and tapped a new one on the frame, and with great expectations, again powered it all up, and...

Nothing. Tried rapping on the pump, but is is just a fail from the get-go. I put it in months ago, but it never had fuel or water so will call Pegasus Racing, with whom I have done business for nearly two decades and talk with them. If there are doubts about the small Facet's, I may go with the larger cylindrical Facet, even if I have to re-fabricate my fuel lines and rear frame bracket.

I watch Utube video's of M37 rebuild engine starts, and find it reassuring that if they can do it, so can I. The first project today is to put in the "T" to run my Autometer mechanical fuel pressure gage, and finish that hookup. Awoke with the thought that I can pressure feed some start up oil thru the same port, with an NPT nipple connector.

An occasional problem with NPT fittings is that when turning them in just right, sometimes the fitting isn't facing the precise direction you need. Permatex #2 non-hardening sealant is a good solution, it goes on just about every fitting, although if you don't use some lacquer thinner promptly to get it off your fingers, it makes for brown fingernails for at least a week.

Will take a lunch break in a few hours and run up to my daughter's place in Charlotte, picking up PF Chang Chinese on the way for lunch, she needs a new light in her closet.

I keep telling myself that my motor is just like a lawnmower motor with five more pistons. Or like my TR4's motor, or my MGB's engine, with two more cylinders, and I rebuilt them several times.

Coffee done, now to get to work....

NV
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Re: Engine in!

Post by just me »

An FYI: P2 is alcohol soluble. Takes it right off.
"It may be ugly, but at least it is slow!"
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