1962 M37 Newbie Restore

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jrodjared
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Re: 1962 M37 Newbie Restore

Post by jrodjared »

Crankshaft seemed to be in good shape
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All the journals seemed free and clear. All the bearings were in decent condition
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I tried to keep the pistons in some kind of order as I was taking them out, but realized it wasn't going to matter so much.
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Re: 1962 M37 Newbie Restore

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I started to notice some details as I got deeper, like how some of the pistons (1,2,5,6) had rusty rods. 3,4 were not. Here's a rusty one
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Yet this one is ok
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Does this mean I had some kind of a clogged oil journal somewhere? How would they even be rusty in the first place? Wouldn't that mean there had to be some water/condensation in there are some point?
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Re: 1962 M37 Newbie Restore

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OK there she is. Last thing I still need to do is pull the valves and springs, but I need a special tool to do that apparently so I will have to figure that one out.

This things looks pretty rough. Has anyone had any experience with a rebuild like this where the thing looked like it might have been in the bottom of the ocean or something and they were able to get it running again? I have my doubts, but I am going to keep at it.
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52 M-42
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Re: 1962 M37 Newbie Restore

Post by 52 M-42 »

It looks to me like you are now ready to go talk to a machine shop. If that block is good, now is the time to rebuild it. The machine shop will tell you what can be used and what needs to be replaced.

Be sure to get a reliable, honest, and experienced machine shop who knows how to rebuild old engines.

Meanwhile, back at the garage, you get to replace brake lines and systems, replace the fuel lines, boil out and coat the inside of the fuel tank, tear apart and rebuild steering, transmission, transfer case, front and rear end, and don't forget the body work and rewiring. Don't forget the radiator, shocks and springs either. :shock: :mrgreen:
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Re: 1962 M37 Newbie Restore

Post by Elwood »

There's nothing wrong with that No. 4 piston that a little JB Weld can't fix. :lol:

Seriously, though, don't stop labeling and organizing, even the parts that you know can't be re-used. More than once, I've gone back and examined defective parts to determine why a failure occurred, and having the relevant parts identified and available has been useful. My SOP is to keep everything until the project is back together and operable, and only then scrap the unusable leftovers.

I fully agree with Storm's advice about finding a "reliable, honest, and experienced machine shop". I'd add two things: first, find a shop that wants to work on something unusual like these old Chrysler flatheads. Some shops are production places, and if it isn't a Chevy small block, it's the odd duck out and gets treated as such. I use a guy who does race engines and antiques, and I could tell by the look on his face when he first saw the T245 block I dragged in that I was in the right place. He wanted to work on it.

Second, learn as much as you can about engine rebuilding before and during the process. Don't just rely on the machine shop to know what to do and how to do it. It's like a medical procedure; you want the best expert(s) to do the work, but you'll end up with a better result if you're involved and knowledgeable about what's being done. For example, I wouldn't spend a dollar on rebuilding an engine if it wasn't going to be balanced, but not all shops think it's worth it, especially on an old flathead like these.

Unless the parts are pitted, don't worry too much about the surface rust. At least not until the parts are cleaned up. The shop will likely thermal clean them, and then you'll know what you've got to work with.

Did you look at the backside of the connecting rod and main bearing inserts that you removed? If the crank bearings have previously been ground undersized, the bearing shells should be marked with the undersize amount.

As for the valve spring compressor: something like this works well on these flatheads: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Clark-F ... 66&vxp=mtr
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Re: 1962 M37 Newbie Restore

Post by jim lee »

How did you get the bell housing off with the flywheel still attached to the crank?

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Re: 1962 M37 Newbie Restore

Post by jrodjared »

Jim it's a two piece assembly. After removing the transmission, you unbolt the cover from the bottom and the bellhousing lifts right over the flywheel.

Thanks for the advice about the machine shop. That's certainly my next stop. I'm going to pick up that tool and finish off the block prior to that. I'll keep the pics coming as I make more progress 8) The end seems to close and yet so far!
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Re: 1962 M37 Newbie Restore

Post by 06boblee »

Anything new?
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Re: 1962 M37 Newbie Restore

Post by isaac_alaska »

Sounds like you're missing the locating pins if the bell housing lifted right off... That or someone ground them down shorter. I don't know why dodge did it this way... But they made the locating pins too long to clear before the bell housing hits the flywheel.
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Re: 1962 M37 Newbie Restore

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Hey guys, been a while figured I would post some photos! Been slow going but any progress is progress right?

OK, here the block being torn down:

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Block being dropped off at the machine shop:

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Pedal Assembly

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Running some fuel lines:

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Cab off to the sandblaster:
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And Back!
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Rebuilt Master Cylinder:
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Running some brake lines!

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Next round of parts to be cleaned:

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So in the meantime I am working on a lot of the accessories and have the radiator out for re-core. About $800, ouch! I called around though and that seems like the going rate. VPW said it was a reasonable price and it would cost more for one of theirs. Sigh. I've also got the starter our for rebuild and a distributor on the way, thanks jordankjcm! The machine shop I found was really excited to work on the block. They said it passed the Magnaflux test so it's water tight. They want to bore the cylinders to .20 and #4 to .40 and put in a sleeve. Waiting to hear from them this week with the specifics. They said #4 was in pretty bad shape. That was the one I had to beat with a sledge to get the piston out of so I believe it.

At this point it's a time and money game. I wanted to have it running by the end of the year, but it doesn't seem likely. I'll keep at it though, slow and steady progress! Hey, she stops now. In theory of course. I haven't actually put any fluid in and tested it. I'll save that for another day :lol:
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Re: 1962 M37 Newbie Restore

Post by isaac_alaska »

I have an extra radiator.... As far as I know it's in working order. You can see it in my photo album if u look through the pics of spare parts. I don't know how much shipping would cost or how much work you'd have to do to it. Also it's in a storage unit about 6 hrs away from me.

Rebuilding yours may be the best option.

Great pics!
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Re: 1962 M37 Newbie Restore

Post by RMS »

I dont know the overbore limit on a 230 but a 0.020 sleeve seems thin. I would take a 251 block 0.080 over. I think ive seen nos 0.040 over pistons for $45. some 0.050s... there's a set of 0.060 pistons with pins and clips for $120 on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-230-Flath ... uH&vxp=mtr

.060 over should give a noticeable increase in compression (can someone do the math ? )
stock 6.5to1 ratio + 0.080 off the head, give ya 7.3 to1 + 0.060 over .......say 8.5to1 ? then a new cam with better lift for something like $150 (whats a regrind cost?). full flow oil mods, dress radius, port match, cleat up the castings, balance the rod ends .........sorry getting carried away :mrgreen:
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Re: 1962 M37 Newbie Restore

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Isaac_alaska, thanks for the offer! I've actually got two in what I consider fair shape, but the technician at the radiator shop said the cores were pretty rotten and he wouldn't trust it to run for very long. It's funny cause they look like they would clean up nicely, but what do I know. Maybe I am being upsold. They were going to clean it up for $150 but in the end they said it was just too far gone. Considering how far I've come with everything else I want it to be right. I didn't see a pic of your radiator in the photo gallery, what kind of condition is it in?

RMS, I don't have the exact specifics just yet on the engine but as soon as I get the hard facts I will post the results. Thanks for the ebay links, got them on my watchlist. I was just going off of memory from the phone call we had last week. I'm already getting carried away looking at all the new parts I'm going to be ordering! Got to keep reminding myself that there is plenty of work to be done in the garage yet that doesn't cost a dime so I better get to it.
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Re: 1962 M37 Newbie Restore

Post by isaac_alaska »

Click on m37 swamp buggy, then the spare parts album. It's hiding in the corner of photo 1821, and 1826. It looks to be in fairly rough but useable shape. Probably best to just get yours re-cored and not worry about it. Gonna be a nice truck!
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Re: 1962 M37 Newbie Restore

Post by RMS »

jrodjared wrote: I'm already getting carried away looking at all the new parts I'm going to be ordering! Got to keep reminding myself that there is plenty of work to be done in the garage yet that doesn't cost a dime so I better get to it.
I hear ya there. I sometimes find myself putting off unfavorable jobs to wait for parts. usually to find that "put-off" job was needed before the new stuff can go on. :lol:

machining adds up and in some cases with the flat head it is more cost effective in the long run to buy new parts. i paid (12years ago) $200 for a stock cam grind that does not take advantage of today's gas. then I had the 12 lifters refaced for $102. new hp cam from vpw with hd springs $300 lifters $12each. now I still get around 12mpg with the stock cam profile but how much would I have saved over the last 12 years with the better cam?
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